Showing posts with label m43. Show all posts
Showing posts with label m43. Show all posts

19 Feb 2023

TTArtisan 23mm F1.4 for macro

I have the manual focus TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 lens. I have extension tubes. I wondered how they would work together. It turns out that they are a pretty good combo! In this article I'll talk about my experience. I am just an enthusiast, take all I say with a grain of salt, it is just my opinion and I haven't made any scientific tests. Maybe a real world account will be helpful to you though, if so, read on...


Setup
The TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 can focus to 20cm, this isn't macro but you can get some nice close-up photos, excellent for flowers. To get even closer, I attached a 10mm extension tube and my TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 lens to my Panasonic GX9 Micro Four Thirds camera.


The TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 is a very reasonably priced manual focus lens. Click here for more on this lens. The 23mm focal length is not really the best (a longer focal length would be better) for close-up or macro but I thought this was an interesting experiment.

The 10mm extension tube I have is the Meke MK-PAF3A. But any extension tube will do. They are easy to find on Amazon, eBay, etc, for a reasonable price. 

I also have a 16mm extension tube. Using the 10mm, I had to get very close to the subject to have it in focus. For this particular 23mm lens, I found the 10mm extension tube was best. But of course you can experiment and it depends on your lens focal length which combination of extension tube will work for you. Generally, for close-up or macro work, it's better to have longer than a 23mm lens.  



Technique
When I tried to focus with the lens focus ring, it didn't really work. The solution was to set the focus to the minimum focus setting on my lens 0.2 (20cm). To focus, I moved the whole camera forwards and back until the subject was in focus. 
 
I had to get very close to the subject to get it in focus

As you can see from the above, to get the image in focus I had to be very close to it. The usual 20cm was reduced to about 10mm (measuring from the camera the sensor to the subject). This is not a good working distance but for static subjects it's fine. 

Even with the lens set to f5.6, because the lens is so close to the subject, it can be difficult to get the subject in focus. In the above picture, on the screen you'll see some blue, that is the focus-peaking, it helps a lot. Just wait until the subject edges have a little blue (or whatever colour you are using) and press the shutter button!


Look carefully at the two pictures above. Getting that critical focus on the subject is not easy. I took these photos handheld but if you use a tripod this will be easier. 


Aperture
On Youtube and the web in general, everyone goes on about aperture, how the larger it is (the lower the f number), the better. The lens I'm using starts at f1.4, that's fantastic for portrait or similar photos. For close-up or macro, a higher f number makes more sense. In the example above I used f5.6 and yet very little of the photo was in focus because I had to get so close and the subject was very small. Experiment, perhaps f8 or even higher would be better. It depends on the look you are trying to get. Here are a few example photos taken with the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 and 10mm extension tube, at different apertures.

The first photo taken at f1.4, the second at f5.6

The first photo taken at f5.6, the second at f8

When using the 10mm extension tube I really didn't find using f1.4 made any sense. The depth of field was so thin. F4 perhaps but often I was using f5.6 or sometimes f8. It depends on the subject, the lighting, the background. The fun of photography is often in the experimentation!


Cost
Are you interested in macro photography but don't know if you want to spend several hundred on a specialised lens? This combination of the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 and 10mm extension tube is a very cheap option. Brand new the lens is less than USD 100 and extension tubes are perhaps about USD 20. Technically it isn't true macro but you are getting close and you can get some nice shots. I've used this 23mm lens because I have it in my collection. Maybe you have a different lens, that's fine too. There are so many excellent manual focus lenses at the around 100 dollar mark. 


Alternatives
As an alternative to extension tubes, try a converter. In a previous article I wrote about the Olympus MCON-P02 Converter. Fit it to the front of the Olympus 45mm f1.8 lens and you have a great little macro solution. It has an advantage over extension tubes, with the converter you can easily remove it and put it back on. Perhaps you want a macro photo and then see something else that is far away, with an extension tube it's a pain, with the converter it is a little quicker to remove. The negative with the converter is that it fits only specific lenses and it is nearly 100 dollars. 

A more obvious solution would be to buy a true macro lens. There's the Panasonic 30mm f2.8 macro and Olympus 30mm f3.5 macro. I've not used either of those but all the reviews I've seen boil down to them being excellent choices. Both those are around the USD 300 mark so pretty good value. If you can afford it though, I would recommend the Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro. I own this lens and I love it! Here's an article I wrote on the Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro. It is around the USD 500 mark but truly excellent!

True macro lenses have some big advantages. They were designed for macro so the image quality is optimised for that kind of photography. You will get true 1:1 macro, which means the subject will appear at the same size in your image. Also, a true macro lens makes it easy to switch between near and far. What I mean is, if you are photographing a flower close up, then you see a bird in the corner of your eye, with the Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro you can quickly change and take photo of the bird. With a lens and extension tubes you'd have to take the lens and extension tubes off and put the lens back on... the bird would've gone in that time. 

There's also the Laowa 50mm f2.8 2X Ultra Macro. I've no experience of it but it's just USD 400 and it provides 2:1, meaning the image is twice the size of 1:1. Maybe an option if you need to get closer. Although you could add extension tubes to the Olympus 60mm lens to achieve this. Perhaps the ultimate solution would be the new OM Pro 90mm f3.5 macro lens. But that is around the USD 1500 mark!


Conclusion
The TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 lens on its own is good for close up photos with the native 20cm minimum focussing distance. When fitted with a 10mm extension tube the minimum focussing distance is much less and it's possible to get some excellent macro (or at least macro-like) photographs. This combination works well. 

The downside is that you have to get very close to the subject. If you want to photograph insects, I'd say this combination won't work well. With the very short focussing distance you might get some shadow of the lens in your photo, that's also not good for macro as you need all the light you can get. Perhaps a longer focal length would be better... but despite this, I enjoyed using the TTArtisan 23mm and 10mm extension tube, I found it useable and fun!


GX9 + 10mm extension tube + TTArtisan 23mm f1.4, photograph taken at f5.6, ISO 200


Disclaimer
I have not received any remuneration for this blog article. This is just my opinion, nothing more. I take no responsibility for your choice or decisions. I am just trying to help here, to share my experience, I hope you find it helpful.



13 Apr 2018

Three months with the Panasonic Lumix G 25mm F1.7 ASPH lens

There are so many reviews of the Panasonic 25mm F1.7 lens. Why another one? Well I'd like my say because I am impressed by this lens! Also, I am just an enthusiast so maybe my view can be complimentary to what you've read elsewhere.


My Story
A few years ago I was using the Panasonic 20mm F1.7 pancake lens. I used it with the Olympus PEN and Panasonic GX7. It made my camera almost pocket sized. I liked the 20mm (40mm equiv.) focal length. But I grew restless and when I was shooting in daylight I tended to go for zoom lenses, especially when on holiday. I didn't use my 20mm much and when I moved to a new GX80 camera, I sold my 20mm along with my GX7. I was happily living with my 12-32mm kit lens for general purpose photography, it is really excellent.


My Surprise
This past Christmas I was given the Panasonic 25mm F1.7 lens. At first I thought I'd only use it for low light shots. To my surprise for the past three months the 25mm has stayed almost exclusively attached to my camera. Maybe it is just a honeymoon period but I do really enjoy using this lens. The 25mm focal length feels more versatile than the 20mm did. The focus speed is superb. The 25mm is bigger than the 20mm and many of my other lenses, I thought before that this would be a negative, somehow it isn't. I find the 25mm sits well on the front of my GX80, the camera is so well balanced with it. Maybe this is due to the 25mm being lightweight?



Build Quality
As I mentioned above, the 25mm is a lightweight lens. It looks high quality, at least to my eyes. In your hands it feels like plastic but despite this it is definitely a solid lens. The mount is metal, the focus ring is very smooth, I don't have any complaints. One upside of the plastic is that when it is very cold weather the lens barrel doesn't bite your fingers off like metal does!

If I were to be picky, I would say the supplied plastic hood can be a fiddle to attach. But I shouldn't complain because at least the lens hood is included in the box. It's a big hood too so it is practical. 



Focal Length
25mm in Micro Four Thirds is equivalent to 50mm in full frame. This is a classic focal length and I really do appreciate it because you can get a wide range of shots with it. Portraits with background blur are easy (the focal length plus the F1.7 aperture help!), full body shots are fine (you don't have to walk too far backward), landscape shots look great, there's no distortion as you get on some wide angle lenses. There are so many good things to say about this focal length. In some ways you can replace your kit lens with this. I know, a 14-42 or 12-32mm lens is really great and don't get me wrong, my 12-32mm still has it's place in my bag/pocket. I just mean that if you only take this 25mm lens out with you, it's ok, you can manage. Most shots can be had by zooming with your feet. 


Close-up
The minimum focusing distance is just 25cm. That means more of the subject can fill the frame. I've found the lens really good for photographing flowers and even insects. For insects of course they are very small so you will probably have to crop the photo to see any detail on them. The good news is that this lens is sharp so when you crop the detail is there. I've even done this with 4K photo mode, you still get insects shots that you can use on social media.

Original 4K Photo
Crop of the bee, there is still a lot of detail


Low Light 
The typical kit zoom lens such as the 12-32mm starts at just F3.5. This isn't bad, in fact I've taken plenty of great photos in the evening or at night with this lens and the 14-42 PZ for that matter. It's just that you have that added amount of freedom with the 25mm F1.7. It lets lots of light in and therefore the ISO can be lower giving cleaner images. 

The 25mm does not have any image stabilisation. However, because of the F1.7 aperture and if you are using a camera with in-body image stabilisation you should be fine. For example, I have a Panasonic GX80 which has in-body image stabilisation and it works very well with this lens.


Kit Lens Compliment
If you've just bought a camera and it came with a 12-32mm or similar kit zoom lens, if you are looking for a step-up, the 25mm is the best choice. You can use it to experiment with low light and portrait shots with blurred backgrounds. It's a light lens so you can carry both the 25mm and your little kit zoom with you. If you do with to improve your photography skills, using a fixed focal length lens, a 'prime' lens such as the 25mm, will help you a lot. I have learnt so much from prime lenses, they force you to frame the shot by moving closer or further away rather than being lazy and turning the zoom ring. You end up learning to 'see' focal lengths. Really, after a while you know what 25mm looks like so when you point you camera, you can frame the subject much quicker. Practice helps but believe me, if you want to improve this is the way to go. 


Conclusion
The Panasonic 25mm F1.7 is a great lens. I know many reviewers out there have said other more expensive lenses are better. Maybe at the low asking price of this lens, you can't go wrong. The photos are so sharp and vibrant, perhaps only but pros with the keenest of eyes would notice the difference in image quality between this and a more expensive lens. For those of us who are enthusiasts and with mortgages to pay, this Panasonic 25mm F1.7 makes a lot of sense. 


Besides the sharpness and the price, I feel this is an extremely versatile lens. It is great for portraits, headshots, landscapes, close-up (almost macro), indoor and low light photography. If you can't decide which lens to use, this is the one!



Reference
DPReview of the Panasonic 25mm F1.7


More articles about photography:
https://mgxp.blogspot.ch/search/label/photography

5 Aug 2017

Which lens is best - Panasonic 12-32 or 14-42 PZ?

Previously I wrote an article praising the Panasonic Lumix G X Vario PZ 14-42mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH Power OIS lens. I recommend it, especially for a holiday trip, as that lens is small and versatile. I've been happily using this lens for a couple of years.

Recently I received a new GX80 camera! It came with the Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-32mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH. What to do? Will it replace my 14-42 PZ as my all-purpose lens? Maybe, in this article I'll list some of the differences, the pros and cons of each, just in case you are considering one of these lenses for your camera bag.

Panasonic give their lenses very long names. In this article I'll refer to them by the shorthand of 14-42 PZ and 12-32.

GX80 + 12-32mm lens extended


Image Quality
From my non-scientific view I feel these lenses both produce amazing photos. I don't think you could make a decision of one lens over another based on image quality. Both are superb.


Auto-focus Speed
Both lenses are fast, I don't see a difference between them.


Focal Length
With the 12-32 lens starting at 12mm (24 equiv.) means you have a wide angle lens but it isn't too wide, you don't usually see any distortion. It allows you to get more into the shot and it even works well for selfies when holding the camera out at arms length. 12mm is an advantage over 14mm, I feel those 2mm make a difference. However, at the long end the 14-42 PZ has an extra 10mm of zoom range. That does make a big difference if you want a lens that can really get in close and for portrait shots it's easier to get some background out-of-focus blur using the 14-42 PZ. Having said that, there are better lens choices for portrait photography, the Olympus 45mm F1.8, for example (my favourite lens!).

With focal length it comes down to what you use the most, the wide or more telephoto end. If you like to get close having the ability to zoom to 42mm can be handy. 32mm (64mm equiv.) can be a bit restrictive. Of course both lenses are covering the all important classic focal lengths of 35 and 50mm equivalence, that is 17mm and 25mm with these Micro Four Thirds lenses.



Minimum Focusing Distance
Both lenses have a 20cm minimum focusing distance when at their widest focal lengths. This is fine for taking flowers and the like, neither lenses are good for photographing insects though. Because of the longer zoom range of the 14-42 PZ, it is the better option for this kind of photography.

If macro or close-up photography is of interest and you are on a budget, consider the Olympus 45mm and macro converter combination. I've used this and it's excellent, you can read more about it here.


Aperture
Both have a variable aperture of F3.5 (wide) to F5.6 (telephoto). As the focal length ranges are different, when zoomed, on paper the 14-42 PZ is the better low-light performer. For example, the 12-32 at 12mm will start at F3.5. Zoom to 14mm and the aperture goes to F3.7. The 14-42 PZ starts at 14mm F3.5.

When using the 14-42 PZ, I zoomed to 32mm and the best aperture I could set was F5.5. We can say in simple terms that when zoomed, the 12-32 is slightly less efficient at light gathering.

In the real world this probably won't make a huge difference. I have found F3.5 to be good enough for most casual evening photography, especially on holiday where both these lenses would be ideal. Just keep either lens at its widest focal length.

If you really need a good low light lens, consider a prime lens such as the Panasonic 20mm F1.7. It is also small and compact.


Size
Physically both lenses are small and compact. When not in use they both fold to a pancake size. The 12-32 is very small. The 14-42 PZ is bigger in diameter. The two switches and styling of the 14-42 PZ give it a slightly bulkier appearance. But both are compact lenses, great for taking on a trip. When fitted to a camera like the GX7 or GX80, they fit nicely into a small shoulder bag or even a large winter coat pocket.


Build Quality
Both are well built. The 12-32 is all plastic. The 14-42 PZ has a metal lens mount, otherwise it is plastic too. But both are made from good quality feeling plastic. The 12-32 in particular, it feels good to the touch. I can't really fault either lens.


Looks
The 12-32 is the better looking lens. It is minimalistic, no red dot, no switches and bumps like the 14-42 PZ. Personally I prefer the neater look of the 12-32.

GX80 + 12-32 lens not extended

Handling
With the 12-32, switch on the camera and then twist the zoom ring to extend the lens before use. The 14-42 PZ is named PZ because it is a Power Zoom lens. Switch on the camera and the lens automatically extends ready for use. It is fast too. If you are used to point and shoot cameras, you'll feel right at home with the 14-42 PZ. It works well with one hand, at least I have using the GX7 and GX80 cameras. The 12-32 has an advantage though, you can extend and set it to the desired focal length before switching on the camera. It is probably down to personal preference which is better. For me, I like both methods but the powered zoom very convenient.

Both cameras come with a small manual lens cap that's easy to lose! You can buy automatic lens caps from eBay, I have one on my 14-42 PZ  and it has worked well. I believe one is also available for the 12-32 lens.


Control
This is where there is a lot of difference. The 14-42 PZ has a rocker switch for zooming. The 12-32 has a conventional zoom ring. For stills I prefer the conventional zoom as you can set that to what you want visually. But the 14-42 PZ can be good for films because you can zoom consistently with the powered zoom.

It is possible to remotely control the zoom from the Panasonic app on your phone. That might be a nice feature for a filmmaker.

The 12-32 does not have a focus ring. Instead, for manual focus, you must use the onscreen controls in the camera. It is ok but not ideal. The 14-42 PZ has a rocker switch for manual focusing, it is easier to manage. Do you focus manually often though? With a standard zoom lens probably not so much.

The zoom rocker switch on the side of the 14-42 PZ lens

Image Stabilisation (IS)
Both lenses have IS meaning that you are more likely to get shots without blur when shooting one-handed or in the evening (low light). The newer 12-32 lens has an advantage, when used with a modern Panasonic camera such as the GX80, you will get Dual-IS which means the lens IS and in-body IS work together.


Real world use
I was using the 14-42 PZ for a couple of years or more. I know that lens. The 12-32 is still new to me but so far I am impressed. I like prime lenses with their fixed focal length, the 12-32 feels similar because you set your focal length and then shoot. With the 14-42 PZ the tendency is to point it and zoom. There is no right nor wrong, both methods get the job done.

I have found the extra wide 12mm focal length handy. Out at a restaurant it was particularly useful in easily capturing everyone at the table. The F3.5 aperture was more than adequate for the job.

With the 12-32 only zooming to 32mm is a bit of a pain sometimes. I want to reach further but I just can't.


Conclusion
I think for convenience the 14-42 PZ is best, especially when the automatic lens cap is attached. The 12-32 makes photography more deliberate as you set your focal length ready to shoot. It is a more tactile experience. Having the wider field of view is also a welcome advantage for the 12-32. Standard zoom lenses are always a compromise. In this case it is down to what's important to you. There are other factors too, such as will you carry another lens with you? I have the Panasonic 35-100mm F4-5.6 lens. It is styled in a similar way to the 12-32. It is compact and great for travel. Maybe with those two in my bag I will not miss the ability to zoom to 42mm, as I can get that and more with the 35-100mm. Decisions decisions! The good thing here is that whatever you choose, you get great quality for a reasonable price.


References

David Thorpe's video for the 12-32 lens.
https://youtu.be/NROsVegOAIo

Other photography articles:
https://mgxp.blogspot.ch/search/label/photography

If you want to see some of my photos I am on Instagram here:
mgVersion1


4 Mar 2017

Panasonic 14-42 PZ compact zoom lens, the perfect all-rounder

I'm the proud owner of the Panasonic GX7 micro four thirds camera. I have a small collection of lenses. A couple of years ago I just had just two prime (non-zoom) lenses. It was a great way to learn because using a prime fixed focal length helped me with composition. You start to 'see' the picture before taking it. However, I found that frequently changing lenses when I was on holiday was a bit of a pain. Sometimes I'd be using my Oly 45mm and I would miss a wider shot because I was too lazy to switch to my 20mm or I just didn't have the time to get the shot.

One day I noticed a Panasonic 14-42mm PZ zoom was on sale in a local camera shop. It was second hand but in good condition, the price was attractive, I decided this could be a good move. I have not been disappointed.

Here's the full name of this lens:
Panasonic Lumix G X Vario PZ 14-42mm F3.5-5.6 ASPH Power OIS
Catchy isn't it!?! ;-)  I'll just refer to it as the 14-42mm PZ in this article.
  
GX7 with the Panasonic 14-42 PZ, retracted (camera OFF)

Here with the lens extended (camera ON)


Compact
The Panasonic 14-42mm PZ lens is compact, just a little larger than the Panasonic 20mm pancake lens. You can buy a lens cap for this lens that will open automatically when you switch on the camera. In the photos here you can see I have this mounted. It does make the lens slightly bigger but it's worth it for the convenience. I think for a travel/holiday lens having no cap to lose is a real boon. The lens cap is called JJC and you can find it on eBay or Amazon.

JJC automatic lens cap, open

Focal Length
The 14-42mm is a good zoom range, 14mm is wide enough, 42mm is fine for a close-up or a portrait.


Aperture
The only down side of this lens is that the aperture, it starts at F3.5 at the wide end to F5.6 at 42mm. For the most part, when on a holiday trip I haven't found it a problem. Usually I am shooting in daylight anyway, so having a smaller aperture (higher F-stop) is better. Also, for taking photos of a group of people, it's easier to get all their faces and the background view in focus with a smaller aperture (higher F number). In the evening sometimes I wish I had my 20mm F1.7 to deal with the low light but having said that, the 14-42mm really does a great job at F3.5, at the wide end, for most situations it is enough.


Zoom
The Panasonic 14-42mm PZ... why the "PZ"? There's no manual zoom ring to turn on this lens. Instead there is a rocker lever. It's an electronic zoom, the PZ stands for Power Zoom. I have found it to be smooth and of course this is a good choice if you are into video. The focal length is displayed on the camera screen. The zoom is fast enough, at least for me. When I switch on my camera there is only a small delay. If I was using a manual zoom then in any case I'd have to extend the lens myself, in the case of the 14-42mm PZ, it extends on its own of course. Having no manual zoom nor focusing ring means the size of the lens is small.



Image Quality
From what I've said so far it sounds like there are a few trade-offs or compromises with the 14-42mm PZ. Well there are of course, most notably the low-light capability. However, I can live with these trade-offs and I really do recommend this lens because of the most important thing about any lens - the quality of the photos! This lens is great, I can't complain about the quality at all. For most holiday style pictures it's more than enough. In daylight shooting it's sharp and you can even get some bokeh (background blur) in your shots.
 
Panasonic 14-42mm PZ, taken at 42mm, F5.6, ISO 320


The lens can focus closely, to 20 cm. That's not macro exactly but it is good enough for taking flowers. The lens has stabilisation which helps you take better shots in low light. It works well and works for video also, which is the best choice for a camera like the GX7 where there's no in-built image stabilisation for video, using this lens with it makes a difference. The auto-focus speed of this lens is also excellent, faster than the Panasonic 20mm.


Conclusion
If you are looking for a compact all-purpose zoom which will not break the bank, this is a good option. As it isn't a new lens model it means if you look carefully you should be able to find this lens at a bargain price. Because of this and how useful it can be to have a fuss-free lens like this when on holiday, I think it's a very good choice. For myself, I originally got this lens as a stop-gap but I'm still using it two years on.


References

A video review by David Thorpe:
https://youtu.be/vwokKQ70MJ0

For more information and the full specification of the 14-42mm PZ take a look at DPReview:
https://www.dpreview.com/reviews/panasonic-x-14-42-3p5-5p6

JJC auto-lens cap:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/d/Camera-Lens-Accessories/JJC-Automatic-Panasonic-F3-5-5-6-H-PS14042/B00IFWE9M0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1488633396&sr=8-1&keywords=panasonic+14-42+pz+lens+cap