TTArtisan 35mm f1.4 lens for Micro Four Thirds cameras

The TTArtisan 35mm f1.4 is an inexpensive manual focus lens. It has no electronic contacts, no autofocus. I'm using this lens with Micro Four Thirds (M43) cameras but you can also purchase it for APS-C cameras. In this article I share my thoughts and experience using this lens. I'm not a professional photographer but I hope my real world experience can be helpful.

TTArtisan 35mm f1.4 mounted on the Olympus E-M5 II

Build and handling
It's small, it's not heavy but it feels dense. The focus ring is smooth. Everything is well put together. The aperture ring clicks, in a soft way. Previously I owned the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4, that was also very well made but this 35mm is smaller and a very different shape. Actually, it reminds me a lot of the Olympus 45mm f1.8 in size and shape. Later in the 'competition' section I'll discuss this more. But there's something quirky about this long cone shape that I sort of like.

The lens cap is metal and it screws on the front of the lens. I know a lot of people don't like this type of cap, as they feel it takes time to take on and off, but I actually like it. I usually take the lens cap off and put it in my pocket while taking photos. It find it is fine. I like the security of knowing the lens cap will stay on when the camera is in my bag. 

A lens hood was not included. So far I haven't felt the need to get one. Flare hasn't been much of a problem. The lens thread is 39mm, I little quirky! That is a sort trend with this lens. 

As you turn the focus ring, the lens extends about 5mm. I don't find this annoying, it's ok, but just something to mention. There are distance markings on the lens. The minimum focus distance has a hard stop which is nice. But when photographing at infinity, I found it best to have the ring just before the stop, just on the first part of the infinity symbol. I had the same trouble with my Pergear 25mm f1.7. It's a shame because you can't just twist to the stop, you must look at the lens barrel.

I have used the TTArtisan 35mm f1.4 on two cameras. Previously on the Lumix GX9 and now on the Olympus E-M5 II. On both cameras the lens is well balanced. It is of course a little heavier than the lenses I usually use, such as the Olympus 17mm f1.8. However, I have become used to it. I feels better than the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 I had in the past. One thing I didn't like about that lens was the weight, my GX9 was always front heavy but with this TTArtisan 35mm f1.4, I don't find that.


Focal length
On M43 the 35mm focal length is equivalent to 70mm in full frame terms. I find this a strange focal length, for general photography I don't find it wide enough and it isn't a very long telephoto. This unconventional focal length is a bit of a challenge and that's a nice feeling. 

Aperture
It ranges from f1.4 to f16. I mostly use it at f1.4 only because that's the star feature of this lens. It's just such a bright lens. Together with the 35mm focal length, you can really make your subject stand out by blurring the background. Of course f1.4 also means it's possible to use the lens in low light conditions.

I should warn that sometimes it is very difficult to get sharp focus at f1.4. On the GX9 the focus peaking and magnify options are easy to use. On the E-M5 II, I use focus peaking but I have to press a button to activate it and often it's difficult to see the peaking ants. Perhaps this is all part of the fun to make you take time to get the photo. 

Close focussing distance
It's very good, at just 28cm. It works very well for flower photos. With extension tubs you can turn this into an almost-macro lens. 

TTArtisan 35mm f1.4, at the closest focussing distance and at f1.4

TTArtisan 35mm f1.4 + extension tube

Image quality
I haven't done any scientific tests but to me, it is a very sharp lens. Whether or not you get sharp photos is probably down to your skill with the manual focus rather than the quality of the lens itself. For this price especially, it's excellent. The out of focus areas render nicely too. 

Real world experience

This is a fun lens. I walk around my local botanical garden and try using the f1.4, can I get a sharp image? It's a challenge! It's compact, it balances well with my camera. I like it is a niche lens. What I mean is, it's not versatile, the focal length is a bit strange. 

I enjoy this lens but it doesn't replace any of my existing lenses. It has its own quirks that make it fun to use on occasion. 

One role this lens could play, is to be a portrait lens. With the f1.4 and a short telephoto, it's pretty good. 


Competition
As I said above, either you get this lens and just accept it's for fun, or you buy it to use it seriously for something like portraits. There are many options, for manual focus, consider the TTArtisan 50mm f1.2. You get a bit more reach and with that slightly brighter aperture, the out-of-focus areas of the picture can be very smooth indeed. It is heavier than the 35mm, very front heavy on my E-M5 II. 

The most obvious competitor for portraits is probably the classic Olympus 45mm f1.8. It's a similar size and it is not expensive, especially on the used market. The image quality is superb. It also has auto-focus and it is lighter. The Olympus is plastic though, I don't mind but I know some others covet the metal, in that case the TTArtisan is definitely the one for you. The TTArtisan focusses closer than the Olympus too. 

The above photos were taken using the E-M5 II on a tripod in the same position relative to the subject. The camera was set to manual, ISO 400, 1/800. 

The first photo (left) is the TTArtisan 35mm f1.4, taken at f1.4. 

The second photo (right) is the Olympus 45mm f1.8, taken at f1.8. 

Notice how much wider 35mm is compared to 45mm. If you prefer the wider view, I'd say the TTArtisan is a good choice because the f1.4 does provide a creamy out of focus background. However, I personally prefer the Olympus 45mm f1.8, that extra focal length makes a difference. 

Instead of portrait photography, maybe you'd like a reasonably priced lens for close-ups, flower photography for example. I would say the TTArtisan 35mm f1.4 is a good choice. The 28mm minimum focus distance gets you close enough for flowers. For smaller, use an extension tube. An alternative would be the Lumix 30mm f2.8 macro. That's a true macro lens, no messing with extension tubes. The field of view is close too. At f2.8 you will not get the same subject separation that f1.4 will give you. Having said that, for macro that is not a concern. In fact, with macro, you must stop down to get more depth of field. This makes the TTArtisan a bit of a waste because having that f1.4 aperture is the major selling point. Anyhow, perhaps as a second use to portraits, it could double as a good close-up lens that won't break the bank. 

Conclusion
The TTArtisan 35mm f1.4 is fantastic! I say that when thinking about the price and performance. I bought from Pergear, it came in a nice presentation box. There was a quality neoprene bag included too. As a fun lens, it has its place. Maybe a great gift for someone. As a serious lens to replace another, I don't think so. But that's just me, if you really love manual focus, then why not. If you are looking for a reasonably priced portrait lens, I do think the Olympus 45mm f1.8 is a better investment. It's more expensive but the auto-focus and lighter weight is worth it. Having said all this, whatever you get, it'll give you great results. Most Micro Four Thirds lenses are excellent.

Disclaimer
I have not received any remuneration for this blog article. This is just my opinion, nothing more. I take no responsibility for your choice or decisions. I am just trying to help here, to share my experience, I hope you find it helpful.

Panasonic Lumix 14-140mm f3.5-5.6 zoom lens for Micro Four Thirds cameras

A couple of years ago I bought the Lumix 14-140mm f3.5-5.6 lens. I generally I prefer small lenses. My favourites are prime lenses such as the Olympus 17mm F1.8 for example. But for holiday trips, sometimes a zoom makes more sense as it is more flexible.

In the past I used a combination of two lenses for holiday trips. The Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 and the Lumix 35-100mm f4-5.6. both are super compact and light - perfect for travel photography. However, sometimes changing lens can be a real pain. You are out and about, snapping away but you can't reach that far-off ship, for example. I have to rummage in my bag, swap over lenses, by that time, the ship has moved, the composition not as I had first seen it.

This is where the 14-140mm lens comes in handy. I can replace both 12-32 and 35-100 lenses with one. The 14-140 is bigger and heavier, but maybe that is ok for the advantage, everything is about balance.

Lumix GX9 and 14-140mm F3.5-5.6 lens

Build and handling
The Lumix 14-140 has a metal mount. Mostly it is a plastic build but very good quality. Perhaps a carbon mix because part of the lens feels cold like metal. There's no creaking or flexing. As you twist the zoom, the plastic inner barrel extends. At 140mm it is about twice the length of the lens at 14mm.

The lens is much fatter than lenses such as the 12-32 or 35-100. But it feels fine in your hands as you zoom, for example. The length of the lens is also not too long, on the GX9 it is still a relatively compact combination.

The 14-140 is not too heavy. It works well with the GX9. I have found using the JJC grip on the GX9 makes it a bit more comfortable. But even without the grip, it is fine. I have also used the 14-140 on the Olympus E-M5 II, it doesn't need an extra grip at all, it's comfortable to use.


Something I find special with this zoom lens is how you can switch on the camera and immediately it is ready for use at 14mm. With the 12-32 and 35-100 lenses I have to twist to open them first, before being able to take a photo. With the 14-140 it makes a difference to have it ready immediately. Easier to capture those surprise moments.

A lens hood is included, it is plastic but good quality. It can be put on backward to store it. But I am not a big fan of this hood, it twists on and I find it a fiddle. Although I generally find such hoods a fiddle on any lens.


Focal length
14mm is equivalent to 28mm in Full Frame terms. Starting at 14mm makes this a versatile lens. It would've been nice to have 12mm but still, I will not complain about those two millimetres too much. 140mm is equivalent to 280mm in Full Frame terms. 14-140mm is an extremely flexible range. Everything from close to very far.


Aperture
The 14-140 has a variable aperture, at 14mm it starts at f3.5. At the telephoto end, 140mm, it starts at f5.6. I know many will moan but I think these apertures are impressive. If you don't like the aperture changing, set it to f5.6, it'll be fine throughout the range.

For the majority of daylight photography f5.6 is perfect. When there is less light, at 14mm, f3.5 is ok, not great. F2.8 would've been better of course but there have to be compromises as the lens is so compact.

For bokeh (background blur), you may think that f3.5-5.6 would hold the lens back. However, aperture is only one ingredient in the recipe for creating that out of focus look. Because this lens is such a long telephoto, to 140mm, even at f5.6 there can be plenty of background blur and separation form your subject.

Image stabilisation
The lens has stabilisation. There is a physical switch on the lens barrel to turn it on or off. I keep it on. The GX9 (and many other Lumix cameras) has Dual-IS. This means the lens IS works with the camera's in-body IS. It is very helpful when composing at long telephoto focal lengths. Also, for low light photography of static objects, it enables you to handhold for longer shutter speeds.

When used with the Olympus E-M5 II, I turn off the lens stabilisation and rely on the Olympus IBIS. There's no dual-IS with Olympus/OM cameras. I must admit to not noticing any difference in use, the Olympus IBIS is great.


Close focussing distance
You can get pretty close. It isn't macro of course, but for the occasional close up on a trip, it works very well. Excellent from flowers and similar photography. For those holiday trips where you are walking in a park, you can take a photo of the sea in the distance and turn around, take a flower photo. Flexible! The focussing is snappy.

Lumix 14-140mm f3.5-5.6, photo taken at 140mm, F5.6, ISO200

Image quality
Fantastic. Sharp images throughout the range. I am just speaking from what I see. I haven't tested in a scientific way. For the intended use, travel, it does the job.


Real world experience
I used the 14-140 with the GX9 on a trip to Rome. It was great having the flexibility to photograph just about anything. For example, I was on the Castel Sant'Angelo. I could see At Peter's in the distance. I took a nice photo from there that otherwise, without the 14-140, I would not have been able to capture. Switching so quickly between near and far is great for travel photography. It gave me some freedom.

One evening at the Forum I found it difficult to get clean photos. With time and effort it is possible, but when on holiday, you don't have time. On other evenings out, I switched to my Olympus 17mm f1.8.

Despite the 14-140 being easy to carry during my trip to Rome, I found myself often wishing for a more compact system. When I used my Olympus 17mm f1.8, I felt more comfortable. In town especially, on the streets, taking out the camera with the 14-140 was a chore. Carrying it round my neck with it hanging down, it got in the way. Imagine you are in a shop with bags in your hands plus the camera round your neck and this lens sticking out!

Perhaps the 14-140 is more suited to a hiking trip, that sort of thing. For a city trip, although fun to have the flexibility, perhaps a smaller combo would be better. This all depends on you though, we are all different, these are just my thoughts.

Telephoto zoom lenses side-by-side. Extended with hoods.

Three zoom lenses for size comparison. Collapsed without hoods.

Competition
As I've mentioned, an alternative might be to use two lenses, a general purpose plus a telephoto. You have to switch between lenses but otherwise, it can be a nice choice with some advantages of a more compact camera plus lens combination. But by compact I mean the Olympus 17mm F1.8 and Lumix 35-100mm f4-5.6 for example.

There are many attractive general purpose lenses for m43. The Olympus/OM Pro 12-45mm f4 is a high quality lens. The downside is the size is only a little smaller than the 14-140 but without the telephoto range.

Olympus/OM have the 14-150mm f4-f5.6. It is a direct competitor to the Lumix 14-140. From all accounts, it seems similar. You get 10mm more reach. Although there is no IS, if you have a Lumix camera the 14-140 is a better choice just because of this reason.


Conclusion
The 14-140 is an excellent lens. It is extremely compact in size for the focal range it covers. The price is reasonable and perhaps you can find a bargain. As a replacement for prime lenses, I am not sure. It is a personal thing, for me the tiny m43 primes are a better fit. Although, the flexibility of the zoom range, it is such a good feeling not to have to switch lenses. There are just too many choices in the world of m43!


Disclaimer
I have not received any remuneration for this blog article. This is just my opinion, nothing more. I take no responsibility for your choice or decisions. I am just trying to help here, to share my experience, I hope you find it helpful.

TTArtisan 23mm F1.4 for macro

I have the manual focus TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 lens. I have extension tubes. I wondered how they would work together. It turns out that they are a pretty good combo! In this article I'll talk about my experience. I am just an enthusiast, take all I say with a grain of salt, it is just my opinion and I haven't made any scientific tests. Maybe a real world account will be helpful to you though, if so, read on...


Setup

The TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 can focus to 20cm, this isn't macro but you can get some nice close-up photos, excellent for flowers. To get even closer, I attached a 10mm extension tube and my TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 lens to my Panasonic GX9 Micro Four Thirds camera.

The TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 is a very reasonably priced manual focus lens. Click here for more on this lens. The 23mm focal length is not really the best (a longer focal length would be better) for close-up or macro but I thought this was an interesting experiment.

The 10mm extension tube I have is the Meke MK-PAF3A. But any extension tube will do. They are easy to find on Amazon, eBay, etc, for a reasonable price. 

I also have a 16mm extension tube. Using the 10mm, I had to get very close to the subject to have it in focus. For this particular 23mm lens, I found the 10mm extension tube was best. But of course you can experiment and it depends on your lens focal length which combination of extension tube will work for you. Generally, for close-up or macro work, it's better to have longer than a 23mm lens.  

Technique
When I tried to focus with the lens focus ring, it didn't really work. The solution was to set the focus to the minimum focus setting on my lens 0.2 (20cm). To focus, I moved the whole camera forwards and back until the subject was in focus. 

 

I had to get very close to the subject to get it in focus

As you can see from the above, to get the image in focus I had to be very close to it. The usual 20cm was reduced to about 10mm (measuring from the camera the sensor to the subject). This is not a good working distance but for static subjects it's fine. 

Even with the lens set to f5.6, because the lens is so close to the subject, it can be difficult to get the subject in focus. In the above picture, on the screen you'll see some blue, that is the focus-peaking, it helps a lot. Just wait until the subject edges have a little blue (or whatever colour you are using) and press the shutter button!

Look carefully at the two pictures above. Getting that critical focus on the subject is not easy. I took these photos handheld but if you use a tripod this will be easier. 

Aperture

On Youtube and the web in general, everyone goes on about aperture, how the larger it is (the lower the f number), the better. The lens I'm using starts at f1.4, that's fantastic for portrait or similar photos. For close-up or macro, a higher f number makes more sense. In the example above I used f5.6 and yet very little of the photo was in focus because I had to get so close and the subject was very small. Experiment, perhaps f8 or even higher would be better. It depends on the look you are trying to get. Here are a few example photos taken with the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 and 10mm extension tube, at different apertures.

The first photo taken at f1.4, the second at f5.6

The first photo taken at f5.6, the second at f8

When using the 10mm extension tube I really didn't find using f1.4 made any sense. The depth of field was so thin. F4 perhaps but often I was using f5.6 or sometimes f8. It depends on the subject, the lighting, the background. The fun of photography is often in the experimentation!

Cost

Are you interested in macro photography but don't know if you want to spend several hundred on a specialised lens? This combination of the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 and 10mm extension tube is a very cheap option. Brand new the lens is less than USD 100 and extension tubes are perhaps about USD 20. Technically it isn't true macro but you are getting close and you can get some nice shots. I've used this 23mm lens because I have it in my collection. Maybe you have a different lens, that's fine too. There are so many excellent manual focus lenses at the around 100 dollar mark. 

Alternatives

As an alternative to extension tubes, try a converter. In a previous article I wrote about the Olympus MCON-P02 Converter. Fit it to the front of the Olympus 45mm f1.8 lens and you have a great little macro solution. It has an advantage over extension tubes, with the converter you can easily remove it and put it back on. Perhaps you want a macro photo and then see something else that is far away, with an extension tube it's a pain, with the converter it is a little quicker to remove. The negative with the converter is that it fits only specific lenses and it is nearly 100 dollars. 

A more obvious solution would be to buy a true macro lens. There's the Panasonic 30mm f2.8 macro and Olympus 30mm f3.5 macro. I've not used either of those but all the reviews I've seen boil down to them being excellent choices. Both those are around the USD 300 mark so pretty good value. If you can afford it though, I would recommend the Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro. I own this lens and I love it! Here's an article I wrote on the Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro. It is around the USD 500 mark but truly excellent!

True macro lenses have some big advantages. They were designed for macro so the image quality is optimised for that kind of photography. You will get true 1:1 macro, which means the subject will appear at the same size in your image. Also, a true macro lens makes it easy to switch between near and far. What I mean is, if you are photographing a flower close up, then you see a bird in the corner of your eye, with the Olympus 60mm f2.8 macro you can quickly change and take photo of the bird. With a lens and extension tubes you'd have to take the lens and extension tubes off and put the lens back on... the bird would've gone in that time. 

There's also the Laowa 50mm f2.8 2X Ultra Macro. I've no experience of it but it's just USD 400 and it provides 2:1, meaning the image is twice the size of 1:1. Maybe an option if you need to get closer. Although you could add extension tubes to the Olympus 60mm lens to achieve this. Perhaps the ultimate solution would be the new OM Pro 90mm f3.5 macro lens. But that is around the USD 1500 mark!

Conclusion

The TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 lens on its own is good for close up photos with the native 20cm minimum focussing distance. When fitted with a 10mm extension tube the minimum focussing distance is much less and it's possible to get some excellent macro (or at least macro-like) photographs. This combination works well. 

The downside is that you have to get very close to the subject. If you want to photograph insects, I'd say this combination won't work well. With the very short focussing distance you might get some shadow of the lens in your photo, that's also not good for macro as you need all the light you can get. Perhaps a longer focal length would be better... but despite this, I enjoyed using the TTArtisan 23mm and 10mm extension tube, I found it useable and fun!

GX9 + 10mm extension tube + TTArtisan 23mm f1.4, photograph taken at f5.6, ISO 200

Disclaimer
I have not received any remuneration for this blog article. This is just my opinion, nothing more. I take no responsibility for your choice or decisions. I am just trying to help here, to share my experience, I hope you find it helpful.

TTArtisan 23mm F1.4 lens (for Micro Four Thirds cameras)

January 2022, a new lens was released by TTArtisan. A 23mm f1.4 manual focus lens, designed for APS-C and Micro Four Thirds cameras. I bought this lens for my Panasonic Lumix GX9 Micro Four Thirds camera. In this article I will share my opinion and practical experience of the lens. I am not a pro photographer and I won't be doing any lab tests. However, I hope my real world experience will help if you are considering this lens.

Build and handling

The lens is built mostly from metal. When you hold the lens in your hand, it feels dense and it has some heft to it. To the touch it can be cold due to the metal build. The focussing ring is smooth. It is very easy to focus, you feel in control as you turn it.

TTArtisan 23mm F1.4

The aperture ring has clicks for each f stop. That's a nice feature, you can change aperture without taking your eye from the subject. I have heard in some reviews that the aperture clicks are in the wrong place, my lens doesn't have this issue, it is just right. Some complain the aperture ring is not nice to use but I also beg to differ on this too. The aperture ring is thin with teeth, your fingers can easily find it and grip it. Perhaps that isn't to some people's liking, to me it is practical.

The TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 is a very well made lens. It feels premium despite the low asking price.

One of the stand-out features of the 23mm F1.4 lens is its look. It is a good looking lens, retro with the black with silver accents. This may sound like a frivolous thing to some but it is a major reason I bought this lens. The look and feel of a lens and camera can encourage some to go out and take photos. Sometimes on YouTube I've heard professional photographers talking about lenses and cameras as "tools". For enthusiasts it can be different, perhaps we will be spurred on in our photography.

There is an optional lens hood available. I bought this, it is a screw on hood. It can be a pain to screw on. The hood is also metal, the edges are a bit sharp. It is square, this adds to the retro vibe of the 23mm lens.

I do like the look of the 23mm on my GX9. I prefer the look without the lens hood. With the lens hood on, if you sit the camera down, it will tip forward. This is because of the weight. The GX9 has some heft to it already, together with the 23mm lens, you do find yourself holding a bit of a brick. This can work to your favour, the camera can seem easier to steady. It is not a big deal but personally because of the weight, I don't think I'll ever use this as a travel lens. Of course I am used to small light lenses, if you are coming from the world of Full Frame you may laugh at me!

I have the JJC grip for the GX9. With the grip fitted the TTArtisan 23mm is a better balance. I prefer this, although the entire set up is of course still hefty.

Manual focus

This lens is manual focus only. There are no electrical contacts which means EXIF data for the aperture and focal length are not saved.

The focus ring is smooth but not loose, it won't easily slip. I like the focussing, it works very well. In the camera I have switched on focus peaking and in can also magnify the image. These features are very important, especially when using the f1.4 aperture. 

Focal length

23mm on M43 is a 'standard' focal length. The field of view is equivalent to 46mm on full frame, close to the iconic 50mm. I enjoy this focal length, it is similar to our usual field of view. It can be used for all sorts of photography.

Minimum focus distance

This is not a macro lens but the minimum focus distance is 20cm, that is excellent for close ups of flowers, for example. As a general purpose walk around lens, it does the job. It is fun to get close to the subject for that detailed photo. However, be warned that at f1.4 aperture, close up it is tricky to get focus and in any case the background blur might be too great, consider stopping down to f4 or f5.6. Remember that being closer to the subject means the background blur will be greater, even if you are at f5.6 it may look smooth. The great thing with this lens is that you have the choice.

GX9 + TTArtisan 23mm f1.4, taken at f1.4

Focus distance scale

On the barrel of the lens there are a bunch of numbers including a distance scale. It can be used for zone focussing. It's not something I use much but with a little practice it could be useful.

F1.4 aperture

One big reason to get this lens is the maximum aperture of f1.4. This means you can take photos in low light and also have some wonderfully blurry backgrounds.

In practice using f1.4 is something you should approach with care. F1.4 makes some very thin depth of field, especially if you are close to your subject. Make use of your camera's manual focussing features. Sometimes peaking only shows some edges. I recommend double checking by magnifying the image.

Above there are two photos, both taken at f1.4. The first is not a crop, I held the camera as close as I could to the subject. In the second photo I stood back with a greater distance between me and the subject. Both photos have a very dreamy out of focus area. Remember that the aperture is not the only factor in creating bokeh, the distance in front and behind of the subject also creates that subject isolation. 

Image quality

Excellent. If you want something more in-depth, there are many technical reviews on YouTube, I would recommend Rob Trek and Red35, I've added links at the end of this article.

The bokeh, or out of focus area behind the subject is smooth and I've been happy with pictures taken wide open at f1.4. There is sometimes a nice look to the photos, a sort of dreamy look. 

GX9 + TTArtisan 23mm f1.4, taken at f1.4

It works well at f5.6 too. For more depth of field and general snaps, the lens works very well. Use focus peaking, perhaps the zone focussing number on the lens barrel for a guide and you have a nice setup for street and similar photography.

GX9 + TTArtisan 23mm f1.4, taken at f5.6

The above photo is a JPEG straight from the camera, no post processing. The colours are punchy and that's not just because of the time of day I took the photo. I do feel the lens gives a slightly more contrasty picture. In any case, let's just say again, the image quality is excellent.  

Competition

The TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 has a big advantage, it's price. About 99 US dollars plus another 10 dollars for the hood. For anyone looking for a new standard focus length lens at an affordable price, this lens hits the mark. However, you should consider whether a manual focus lens is for you. I already owned the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 lens before buying the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4. I wanted the challenge of a totally manual focus lens, the f1.4 aperture and the retro look. Your priorities may be different.

If I compare the 23mm to my Panasonic, purely from a practical standpoint, the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 is the better lens. It has auto-focus, great image quality and it is light, it feels great on my GX9 camera, a better balance in the hand. The Panasonic is a little more costly, approx. 150 US dollars. Keep your eyes peeled for deals though, sometimes you can pick one up for closer to 100 dollars. If you are looking to purchase your first prime (non-zoom) I would recommend the Panasonic over the TTArtisan. Having the option of auto-focus and the light build is important. Now many might argue with me on the build, the Panasonic 25mm f1.7 is plastic. I don't mind plastic and certainly when I hold the two lenses in my hands, I prefer the light weight Panasonic. If good old metal is important to you, go for the TTArtisan.

I took some test photos to compare the bokeh between these two lenses. Below the first two photos are using the TTArtisan and the third is with the Lumix 25mm at f1.7. See what you think...

1. TTArtisan 23mm f1.4, the photo was taken at f1.4 
2. TTArtisan 23mm f1.4, the photo was taken at f1.7 
3. Lumix 25mm f1.7, the photo was taken at f1.7

The first thing to note is the difference in the field of view. The Lumix 25mm (picture 3) looks bigger in the frame. But to my eyes the difference in bokeh is not a lot between the images, even f1.4 doesn't make that much of a difference. Of course it depends on circumstances, in my test photos there was a fair amount of distance behind the subject, that helps create the bokeh effect anyway. 

If you really must have a f1.4 aperture lens around the 23mm focal length, there are alternatives but they tend to be more expensive. The Panasonic Leica 25mm f1.4 for example, a wonderful lens by all accounts but about five times the cost of the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4. There's a Sigma 30mm f1.4 at around the 300 dollar mark. The OM 20mm f1.4 is also a great choice but again it is a bit pricey, even more than the Panasonic Leica 25mm f1.4. 

Conclusion

If you are used to modern photography but perhaps wish to taste how it was done in times past, the TTArtisan 23mm f1.4 is a great choice. It isn't expensive and for sure you'll enjoy looking at it and using it. It is fun to use. The images from it are excellent. Of course sometimes you miss the focus a little, especially at f1.4. But that's the fun factor, that you are in full control, in fact you have no choice, you must auto focus and the end result is up to you. 

I think it is a great lens to give as a gift. The lens comes in a very elegant box. A nice premium feel all round. That special someone might think you've spent much more than 99 dollars!

I recommend this lens. TTArtisan have done a great job, providing a low cost lens for enthusiasts. The image quality is excellent. Do you really need to spend hundreds on a new lens, if you don't need auto-focus, maybe consider this or similar lenses.

Reference

Buy from Pergear: https://www.pergear.com/products/ttartisan-23mm-f1-4

Review by Red35: https://youtu.be/FIWCZ2YHbOg

Review by Rob Trek: https://youtu.be/TEj62o0TK5U

Disclaimer

I wrote this article to help others and for my own pleasure. I have no affiliation with TTArtisan or any other photography company. These are just my own thoughts and opinion. If you disagree, that's fine. 

Panasonic Lumix 35-100mm f4-5.6 zoom lens (for Micro Four Thirds cameras)

There are many telephoto lenses for Micro Four Thirds but one in particular is often overlooked, it is the subject of this article, Panasonic Lumix G Vario 35-100mm f4-5.6 (model H-FS35100K). 

Most of us start with a kit zoom with focal lengths 14-42mm, 12-32mm or perhaps 12-60mm. These zoom lenses cover the wide, standard and moderate telephoto focal lengths. For example, the Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6, it is a tiny lens that is fine for a lot of situations, group photos, portraits, landscape, etc. 

After some time you may find yourself wishing for a lens that has a longer reach. Maybe you go to the seaside and would like to photograph a far away ship, or when you visit the zoo you'd like to capture the expression on a monkey's face? You have a few choices, you could get an all-in-one sort of lens like the Lumix 14-140mm or you could go for the lens we're discussing here, the 35-100mm f4-5.6. In full frame terms, 35-100mm is the equivalent of 70-200mm.

I'm not a professional photographer, I am an enthusiast only. I've not made any scientific tests, the following are from my real-world experience using this lens for a few years. I hope you find it helpful.  

GX80 with the 35-100 mounted // The 35-100 with the lens hood stowed in hand

Design, Build and Handling
Physically the 35-100mm f4-5.6 is a very small lens. It is smaller than the Lumix 25mm f1.7 prime lens, in diameter and length (when the lens is collapsed) - see the photo on the left below:

The 35-100 has a similar look to the 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 standard zoom (above, right photo). The 35-100 is about the same diameter and just over twice the length. Unlike the 12-32, the 35-100 has a metal lens mount and a manual focus ring. The manual focus ring is close to the front and much narrower than the zoom ring. Both rings are smooth and easy to distinguish between without looking. The lens is made of metal and plastic. The quality is very good, it feels better than the plastic of the Lumix 25mm f1.7 lens. 

The 35-100 is lightweight at 135g. You can hardly feel it when you carry it. There is no weather sealing. A lens hood is included, it is plastic, it can be put on backwards for stowing (it's not easy to use the lens with the hood on backward). The hood can be fiddly to put on. 

The 35-100 mounted on the GX80, lens hood attached, lens collapsed (left) and fully extended (right)

When the lens is collapsed (above left). In this position, if you hold the camera face down, the lens will not slip and extend on its own, it stays in place. To use the camera you must turn the zoom ring. There is some resistance, it's a firm feeling, push past it and you'll be at the 35mm position. There is a smooth, quality feel to this. The lens barrel will extend as soon as you turn it. 

The filter thread is 46mm, I really like that, many other lenses are the same, such as the Lumix 25mm f1.7, the Olympus f1.8 lenses, etc. 

I've owned the 35-100 lens for six years. I've taken it on many trips, it's rolled around inside my bag and it still works perfectly. There's just one thing I noticed recently, when zoomed to 100mm and I use auto-focus, there is an electronic sounding squeaking noise. But it doesn't affect anything and it isn't heard when videoing.  

Zoom Range and Aperture

At 35mm the maximum aperture is f4. Zoom to 100mm and the maximum aperture is f5.6. This means you should take care in low light situations. For example, when photographing at 100mm, at f5.6, if the lighting is not great then you may find it hard to keep the ISO down. The lens does have image stabilisation and is Dual-IS compatible with Lumix cameras like the GX80, GX9, G9, etc. Also, it's easy to hold the camera steady with this lens. The 35-100 is so small and light, it doesn't pull the camera forward, it is balanced well, at least on the GX80 and GX9 cameras I've used it with. 

If you are worried about the f5.6 aperture, check your own photos and see how many are taken below that. In most cases I've found that I often photograph at f4 or f5.6 anyhow. This is especially true when on holiday in good light. 

The reach of this lens is fantastic. The 100mm maximum focal length is the star of the show. I've taken photos of boats on the lake, then later on the computer I have zoomed in and then I've noticed the people on the boat! For a safari maybe a longer lens would be better but for general holiday photos, 100mm is great. The minimum focal length of 35mm is limiting though, I wish it were wider. 

Image Quality

Excellent! I haven't made any scientific tests but I'm very happy with this lens. The images have contrast, good colours, the background blur is pleasant, there is little to complain about here!

Example photos taken with the Lumix 35-100mm f4-5.6

Throughout the zoom range the quality is consistent, although I must admit I have not pixel-peeped nor made any scientific tests. 

Portraits
In addition to giving you a capable general purpose telephoto lens, the 35-100 f4-5.6 can be used as a portrait lens. Don't let the f5.6 put you off, if you put enough space behind your subject, use 100mm, at f5.6 the background blur will be very nice. But of course if you are serious about portrait photography, there are better choices.

Early 2020 I visited Zurich. Mostly I used my 12-32 but upon visiting Zurich Zoo I switched to the 35-100. The photo of a monkey is a good example of what this lens can do, I took this photo indoors, handheld:

GX80 and Lumix 35-100mm f4-5.6 -- taken at 100mm, f5.6, ISO 2000

Close-Focussing 

The minimum focussing distance is 90cm. This is ok for flowers but it's not really my favourite for this kind of photography.   

It is possible to buy some extension tubes and use with the 35-100 to get closer. I tried the Meke mk-paf3a 10mm and 16mm extension tubes:

• At 35mm, I could get as close as 13cm (distance from the camera body to the subject)
• At 100mm, I could get as close as 32cm (distance from the camera body to the subject)

For me, I found being at 35mm was best. However, if you are serious about macro, I wouldn't recommend this combination. Make the investment in a dedicated macro lens such as the Olympus 60mm (it's amazing - see my review here). 

Negatives

• Close focussing is only 90mm, I wish I could get closer.
• The lens hood is fiddly to fit. Once it is on it is fine though.
• It starts at 35mm, this means I have to keep swapping lenses when on holiday. I wish it started at 25mm, that would've made it ideal. 35mm is just a little too tight for general photography.
• I can't think of anything else... It would be nice if it were weather sealed but it is so small it is no trouble to shelter it from a shower.

Price
Shop around, the 35-100 f4-5.6 is often around the USD 350 mark or cheaper. Second hand, probably half that. 

Competition
All other lenses with a similar focal length are bigger, heavier or more expensive. The Panasonic 35-100mm f2.8 is a monster by comparison. Olympus have a 40-150mm f4-5.6 but it is bigger, although you do get some extra reach with it. 

I feel that the biggest competition to this lens actually comes from the 'catch-all' lenses such as the Panasonic Lumix 14-140mm f3.5-5.6. It is a reasonable price (under USD 600) and replaces the 35-100 plus your standard zoom (12-32 for example). The 14-140 is bigger but it is not huge, it could be a good compromise. Olympus/OMDS also have some nice options with the 12-200mm f4-6.3 if you really don't want to compromise on the focal lengths covered.


Conclusion
I believe the 35-100 f4-5.6 is exceptional. It is extremely small, lightweight and affordable. This lens is what Micro Four Thirds is all about! Paired with a GX80 or similar camera, perhaps a 12-32 or prime lens, you have a great travel kit. The compact size of this lens demonstrates the true nature of Micro Four Thirds, especially if you compare to the equivalent Full Frame 70-200mm lens that would be many times bigger, heavier and more expensive.

For anyone who doesn't normally take telephoto pictures, this also maybe a nice lens to have. I say this because being so small and light, you could carry this in your bag for those few times when you need the extra reach. The reasonable price is also a bonus.

Often when reading or watching reviews of lenses I hear lots said about the Pro models. But how much better are they than the consumer lenses such as this 35-100? The question to ask yourself is, do you need a Pro lens or would this smaller, lighter, more reasonably priced lens be enough? Maybe you only photograph at night, then f4-5.6 is no good. But if you take such a lens on holiday the chances are you are photographing in daylight mostly, maybe even sunshine, in which case f4-5.6 is perfect.

As an enthusiast I've had a lot of fun with this 35-100mm f4-5.6 lens. I love the quality of the photos from it. I feel it is a good choice. Perhaps one day I will go for a 14-140, as that might be a simpler option than swapping lenses and I believe it focusses a lot closer. Until that time, the 35-100 f4-5.6 will stay close at hand.

References

Review of the 35-100 by David Thorpe:

https://youtu.be/1itRjvF4SdM

Specifications at DPReview:

https://www.dpreview.com/products/panasonic/lenses/panasonic_35-100_4-5p6_ois/specifications

Disclaimer
I wrote this article to help others and for my own pleasure. I have no affiliation with Panasonic or any other camera company. These are just my own thoughts and opinion. If you disagree, that's fine.

Panasonic Lumix GX80 and GX9 camera comparison

The Panasonic Lumix DC-GX9 is the successor to the DMC-GX80, but how much difference is there? Is it worth upgrading to the GX9? In this article we'll explore the strengths of these two cameras and discover some of the notable differences the later GX9 has to offer.

Panasonic name their cameras depending on where they sell them in the world. The GX80 is also known as the GX85 or GX7 II. The GX9 is also known as the GX7 III. In this article we'll refer to them simply as GX80 and GX9.

• The GX80 was released back in 2016. It has a 16 megapixel sensor in a compact range-finder style body. It was aimed at the enthusiast level. 
  
• The GX9 was released in 2018. It has a 20 megapixel sensor in a very similar body to that of the GX80. 

My Story
I used the GX7 for a number of years. The GX8 was too big, I waited. The GX80 came and for four years I have used and loved it! It is just the right size for me, it has a lot of features in a small package. The GX9 was always tempting, to get the newer 20 megapixel sensor, but the price was too high for such seemingly small differences with the GX80. However, I recently bought the GX9 due to a fantastically low price. Was the upgrade worth it? 

Common features
The two cameras are very similar in looks. On paper the GX9 is slightly bigger and heavier but you can't really tell. In the hand both cameras feel the same. The rear screen flips up and down but not far enough for selfies. Both have an EVF (electronic view finder), 5-axis IBIS (in body image stabilisation) and the same battery. There are three custom positions that are easily accessible from the model dial C position. 

Top: GX9 | Bottom: GX80 - both fitted with the 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 compact zoom lens

Physical differences 
The GX9 has an improved grip due to the large thumb rest. It isn't a massive change but I like it a lot. 

GX9 thumb rest and dials on top

Exposure compensation dial. This is nice but it doesn't make a lot of difference as changing the exposure compensation on the GX80 was so easy. On the GX9 it is possible to disable the physical dial and do it the GX80 way if you prefer. So far I have been using the exposure dial as it is. It doesn't have a lock but I've not had a problem with it moving accidentally yet. 

The main PASM mode dial is smaller on the GX9 because it sits on top of the exposure compensation dial. I would've preferred it to stay the same size as the one on the GX80 but it is ok like this. 

GX9 switch for AFS, AFC or MF

The GX9 has a switch for AFS, AFC and MF (Auto Focus Single point, Auto Focus Continuous and Manual Focus) - just like my old GX7 did! In the same place on the GX80 there is a Fn button that by default is set to 4K Photo. For me having the AF/AFC/MF switch makes a difference. On the GX80 I had a Fn button programmed to it but I prefer this little switch. By the way, it works fine with the MF clutch on my Olympus 17mm F1.8 lens, when you move the clutch, MF is engaged automatically. It overrides the AF/AFC/MF switch position. 

In relation to the GX80, the GX9 power on/off switch has moved just a few millimetres to the left. It's not a problem, just something to get used to. 

On the GX80 the EVF is static. The GX9 EVF swivels up. This can be useful for looking down or if you are at odd angles. However, in practice I don't find this useful, not when I used my old GX7 and not now on the GX9. It's just a nice to have feature. 

According to the specs, the EVF image quality and size are the same on both the GX80 and GX9. However, in my opinion the GX9 view finder image is better. Anyway, that's just my subjective opinion, both EVFs are small in any case. 

Left: GX80 | Right: GX9

The LCD back panels on both GX80 and GX9 are also very similar in specification. Subjectively I do find the GX9 a little more vibrant but that might be more due to the newer menu graphics looking cleaner. 

USB and HDMI ports on both cameras are on the right side. On the GX80 there is a flap covering the ports. The GX9 has a very nice little sliding door. I prefer the GX9 solution, it is more refined.

The lens mount on the GX80 is a sharp edge. On the GX9 it is tapered, it curves slightly. This means if you mount smaller diameter lenses there are no sharp edges for your fingers to touch. This is a subtle difference but I like it, again a design refinement. 

Internal improvements
The GX9 has a 20 megapixel sensor. It's better than the GX80's 16 megapixel on paper. Practically do not expect any massive difference in image quality. 

Both the GX80 and GX9 have WiFi. The GX9 has Bluetooth. The Bluetooth can be used to log GPS coordinates in photos as you go. It's also possible to use the app as a remote trigger using the Bluetooth alone. There maybe other advantages but I have not fully explored this yet. Whether this is important or not is debatable. If you use a tripod a lot then perhaps the remote trigger would be nice because it doesn't use so much power as the WiFi. On both cameras the WiFi drains the battery fast!

Software improvements
The menus in the GX9 have been updated. The graphics have a cleaner look, they look higher resolution, the black is a deeper black. More menu options can be seen at once, for example, on the GX80 the first photo menu has eight pages whereas the GX9 has four. There has been some rearrangement too, now the third menu (C and spanner icon) is very short, just five options. But select any of those menu items and there is a sub-menu below. This might seem cheating but I don't mind this, I think it is better. Having a very long list makes it difficult to find what you are looking for, this is an improvement over the GX80. 

Left: GX80 | Right: GX9

In the menus on the GX80 of you wanted help there was a line of text scrolling by at the top. I didn't find that helpful. With the GX9 press Disp and it shows a little window with an explanation. 

The biggest practical update to the menu is having My Menu. It's a customisable menu for you. Add any menu items that you like. I've added things like Time Lapse and WiFi - always the sort of options I usually cannot find but don't want to assign to a button. I am impressed with Panasonic for including this My Menu option to the GX9, they could've decided it was a consumer level camera and left it out. Adding it really means they understand some of us appreciate this extra customisability (Olympus, I hope you are listening - add such features to your lower end models, why not?). 

On my GX80 the battery level indicator had three bars. It wasn't a very precise way of telling how much juice you had left. The GX9 has improved this, now there are four bars. Yes it's not a big improvement, but it's better than nothing. Dear Panasonic, if you are reading this, please give us a percentage number instead. 

A minimum shutter speed can be set on the GX9. This could be useful if you wanted to photograph in Aperture priority but you still wanted to keep your shutter speed within a certain range. 

The GX9 has a completely new feature called Sequence Composition. This is in the Playback menu. First take a 4K Photo clip, have something move through the frame. Use Sequence Composition to select some frames from the 4K Photo clip and merge them. The resulting image will have whatever was moving through the frame, appearing multiple times at multiple points. I haven't tried it yet but I'm looking forward to some fun with it. 

4K Photo Bulk Saving is a new feature that will save lots of frames from a 4K Photo clip. 

Sometimes on my GX80 I would want to use a filter but I assign the Filter option to a menu button. This is because when using the mode dial, it's in Auto. Using a button means I can control my exposure and then apply the Filter. But on the GX80 the assigned Filter button would switch the current Filter on/off. With the GX9 the button will give you the choice of filter to select.

The Post Focus feature is available from the Drive button. This is a good idea because on the GX80 it was only in the menus and a pain to find. The Post Focus option can be useful for focus stacking. I hope the GX9 focus stacking has improved, it wasn't the best on the GX80. Something else to try! 

If you have a lens with a button on it, there is an option in the GX9 menu to configure it. 

The GX9 has an option to configure the folder structure and filenames. 

The GX9 has a new Photo Style called L Monochrome D. Set it up how you like, it is even possible to add simulated grain to the image. There's also Cinelike D and V Photo Styles.

Video
When filming 4K video, both the GX80 and GX9 have a crop. The crop is greater on the GX9. For me it isn't an disadvantage because I don't use video much and usually I stick with Full HD. Having a crop does mean you can get slightly closer to the subject too. But I know this is also a disadvantage because it means the view you have for photography is not the same as the view you have when you switch to video. 

GX9 video modes including PAL and NTSC

The GX9 does have a better selection of video modes. The GX80 was set to 25 and 50fps for Europe. However, the GX9 allows for 30 and 60fps too. 

Conclusion
The GX80 is a wonderful camera, they already got so much right with it. The GX9 is an enhancement over the original. It is like two Bakewell tarts and one has a cherry - that is the one you want but the other will be just as delicious. 

If you already have a GX80, my recommendation is to stick with it unless you see the GX9 at a fantastic price (that's what happened to me!). Or perhaps if your GX80 dies, get a GX9 next time. 

I do applaud Panasonic for these two models. The GX9 is a refresh of the GX80 where they kept the spirit of a small but powerful enthusiast level camera. For a travel and street camera, the GX series works so well. I do hope Panasonic will not forget to give us a GX10 in the near future.

References and links

A written comparison between the GX80 and GX9: 
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/panasonic-vs-panasonic/gx9-vs-gx85-gx80/

Specifications: 
https://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=panasonic_dmcgx85&products=panasonic_dcgx9

A video review of the GX9 but with reference to the GX80 and other GX models: 
https://youtu.be/3UleohHc8CA

Disclaimer
I wrote this article to help others and for my own pleasure. I have no affiliation with Panasonic or any other camera company. These are just my own thoughts and opinion. If you disagree, that's fine.

Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens (for Micro Four Thirds cameras)

I've been using the Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens for a few months and wanted to share my impressions. I'm not a professional photographer and there are many technical reviews available. This article is from my subjective point of view, my thoughts and experience of the lens. The Olympus 17mm f1.8 is a Micro Four Thirds (M43) lens as used primarily by Olympus and Panasonic Lumix G cameras.

Design and Build
As soon as you pick up the Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens you smile because you are holding a quality product. You have that feeling because of the metal build. There is some plastic trim, the focus ring and cap are also made from plastic but overall, the Olympus 17mm f1.7 feels like it is built to last. Although a thoroughly modern lens in many respects, I also get a bit of a retro vibe from it. Perhaps due to the build but also the numbers and distance scale on the barrel add to the feeling. The front lens element is small which is nice because there's less to be damaged in a glancing blow. The filter thread is 46mm which is the same as some other popular M43 lenses, handy if you already have 46mm filters.

 

Panasonic Lumix GX80 and Olympus 17mm f1.8

When mounted on my Panasonic Lumix GX80, the Olympus 17mm f1.8 looks right at home. I think this lens is perfect for any small or medium sized M43 cameras. The weight is just about right, it's slightly heavier than the Lumix 25mm f1.7 for example.

Size-wise the 17mm f1.8 is also just about right. It's not as small as a pancake lens but it's smaller than comparable many lenses. Below you can see both the 17mm and the Panasonic Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 zoom next to each other. The 17mm is not a lot bigger than the tiny 12-32.

Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 and Olympus 17mm f1.8

The 12-32, when set to 17mm, has a maximum aperture of f4. If you are considering the Olympus 17mm as a compliment to the 12-32, I think it's a good choice. 

Focal Length
M43 17mm is equivalent to 34mm in Full Frame (FF) terms. That's close to the classic 35mm angle of view. Therefore the 17mm is a moderate wide angle lens suitable for all kinds of photography. I would characterise the angle of view as 'comfortable'. What I mean is, for the majority of day-to-day photography this is probably all you need. It's not very wide so there's no distortion when you get close to the lens.

It is not suited to portrait shots, although it can be good for what's called environmental portraits. That's when you include some other elements with your subject. The best example is when you are on holiday, you want to take photos with someone in it but also some background. It is a personal choice though, I must admit that I also like the 25mm (50mm equiv.) focal length too. If you are considering a 25mm lens instead, click here for an article I wrote on the Lumix 25mm f1.7. 


Close-Focussing
It says 25cm is the closest you can focus but it seems to be more like 20cm to me. This is pretty good for most situations. As the field of view is wide, it isn't easy to get close-up (macro style) photos. However, you can still get some nice flower photos as long as the flowers are big enough. In the following photo the flowers are small, because of the 17mm angle of view you can get more in the frame.

Olympus 17mm f1.8, taken at f4, ISO 200

To get those close up shots of smaller flowers you could consider buying the Olympus MCON-P02 macro adapter, it screws onto the front of the lens. I have one for use with my Olympus 45mm f1.8 lens. The MCON-P02 also works well with the 17mm:

I took the three pictures (left to right) of daisies (small flowers) above in Aperture Priority at F4, ISO 200:

1. Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens only, as close as I could get
2. Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens + MCON-P02 macro adapter, as close as I could get
3. Olympus 45mm f1.8 lens + MCON-P02 macro adapter, as close as I could get

The 17mm and MCON-P02 definitely gets you closer (photo 2 is closer than 1) but is it worth the extra USD 90 (approx.) and hassle (screwing it on/off)? In my opinion, no. I think you'd be better off getting a dedicated macro lens. Where the MCON-P02 makes a big difference is when used with the Olympus 45mm f1.8 (photo 3). If you also have that lens then it might be worth getting the MCON-P02. A more detailed article on the MCON-P02 is here. 

Auto-Focussing

Fast and silent. I have no complaints using it with my Lumix GX80 camera. Way better than the Lumix 20mm f1.7, if you are comparing those two lenses, I would recommend the Olympus 17mm f1.8.

Manual Focussing
The Olympus 17mm f1.8 has a Manual Focus Clutch. The focus ring can be pulled back, this reveals a focussing distance scale and activates manual focus in the camera. On my Panasonic Lumix GX80 camera this works perfectly. Pull the focus ring back, the camera goes into MF. Push the ring forward and I'm back in AF mode.

Once the focusing ring is pulled back the distance scale is visible below an aperture scale. The idea is that in the camera you set your aperture. You match the focus ring distance scale to that aperture. For example, set your aperture to f5.6, use the focus ring to line up 1m with 5.6. That means that one metre from your camera most objects will be in focus. This is useful because you could leave your camera like this and just snap photos. You just have to remember to move within 1m. It can be good for street photography where you don't want to spend time focussing, just point and shoot.

Practically is the MF clutch useful? I haven't used it much so far, the auto-focus is so fast on my GX80. But it is a nice feature to have, something to explore.


Image Quality
Superb! I am not a pixel peeper and I don't do scientific tests. I can only say that I'm very happy with the photos when I use this lens. I wouldn't say the 17mm is a huge improvement over other lenses, such as the Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 for example, because that's an already sharp lens. However, the low-light capability of the Olympus 17mm f1.8 puts it head and shoulders above such a lens. For example, if you are outside photographing flowers and then go inside to photograph, fine, the lens does a fantastic job in both situations. If you can use a low f number, your ISO can stay lower, giving you more detailed photographs in low light. 


Background Blur / Bokeh
Yes, it's possible with this 17mm lens with f1.8, you can get some nice out-of-focus effects. But don't expect too much because 17mm is wide and to get the best bokeh effect you really need a longer focal length. If you are deciding upon your first prime and bokeh is important to you, go for a 25mm (50mm equiv.) or better still, a 45mm (90mm equiv.) lens.

Olympus 17mm f1.8, photo taken at f1.8, ISO 200

It's also worth mentioning that traditionally this 17mm (35mm equiv.) focal length is preferred by those who want depth of field, they don't want so much bokeh. Often a photograph can be best with more in focus, always keep this in mind, don't get too swept up in the notion that bokeh is always needed in your photos.


Negatives
The Olympus 17mm f1.8 is excellent, these are the only downsides I can think of:

1. A lens hood is not included in the box. It's a shame as sometimes with direct sunlight there are some blue flares that appear. The official Olympus lens hood costs an arm and a leg! There are third-party ones, that's probably the best choice, maybe later I'll get one.
   
   
2. There's no weather sealing but no other lenses in this price range/style, have weather sealing. Also, weather sealing is not important unless your camera body is also weather sealed. It's also a small lens so easy to shelter under your jacket if you get caught in a surprise shower.

Price
When originally released it was pricey. In recent times the 17mm has often dropped to around USD 350. I was lucky to get mine on sale, brand new, for about USD 230! Keep your eye out, you might get such a bargain. If you compare to a lens such as the Lumix 25mm f1.7 or Olympus 45mm f1.8, then yes the 17mm is expensive. However, remember that the 17mm is a lens with a much higher build quality and the manual focus clutch too. The 17mm is a premium lens for the discerning photographer! 


Competition
You could stick with a zoom lens such as the Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6. It covers all the most popular focal lengths and it's small and light. However, it's not the best in low light, at 17mm the 12-32 will give you a maximum aperture of just f4. The Olympus 17mm f1.8 can open up a lot of new photography opportunities. 

For other primes I'd say the Panasonic Lumix 20mm f1.7 and Leica 15mm f1.7 are the closest competition. They are similar focal lengths to the Olympus 17mm f1.8 and are also small, compact lenses. I used to have the 20mm, it was great but the auto-focus was slow and the 20mm focal length didn't suit me. I haven't used the Leica 15mm f1.7 yet but all the reviews I've seen rave about it. I wanted this lens but I ended up with the Olympus 17mm f1.8 instead, the reason was price. The 15mm is often much more expensive.

Olympus have another 17mm, their Pro level lens, it has a maximum aperture of f1.2 and it is weather sealed. However, it's huge and heavy compared with the 17mm f1.8. Also, the Pro lens is super expensive. If you are looking for the best, of course the Pro lens is it. If you are looking for the best value, the 17mm f1.8 is the lens you are looking for.

Conclusion
The Olympus 17mm f1.8 is a fine lens that is a joy to use! The focal length is general purpose, the lens is light, compact, it has great build quality, it looks the part... it's a great little lens. 

References

Here are a few reviews and other links:

Micro Four Thirds: 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Micro_Four_Thirds_system 

Specifications:

https://www.dpreview.com/products/olympus/lenses/olympus_m_17_1p8

Review by David Thorpe: 

https://youtu.be/HyjQp7W5A9c

A comparison between the 17mm and the Olympus 14-42mm kit lens by Rob Trek: 

https://youtu.be/2NAfyV7UcPQ 

A comparison between the Olympus 17mm f1.8 and the Pro lens, here's a video by Peter Foresgard: 

https://youtu.be/53AmXtsU2Hs

Disclaimer

I wrote this article to help others and for my own pleasure. I have no affiliation with Olympus or any other camera company. These are just my own thoughts and opinion. If you disagree, that's fine.