3 Jan 2022

Panasonic Lumix 35-100mm f4-5.6 zoom lens (for Micro Four Thirds cameras)

There are many telephoto lenses for Micro Four Thirds but one in particular is often overlooked, it is the subject of this article, Panasonic Lumix G Vario 35-100mm f4-5.6 (model H-FS35100K). 

Most of us start with a kit zoom with focal lengths 14-42mm, 12-32mm or perhaps 12-60mm. These zoom lenses cover the wide, standard and moderate telephoto focal lengths. For example, the Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6, it is a tiny lens that is fine for a lot of situations, group photos, portraits, landscape, etc. 

After some time you may find yourself wishing for a lens that has a longer reach. Maybe you go to the seaside and would like to photograph a far away ship, or when you visit the zoo you'd like to capture the expression on a monkey's face? You have a few choices, you could get an all-in-one sort of lens like the Lumix 14-140mm or you could go for the lens we're discussing here, the 35-100mm f4-5.6. In full frame terms, 35-100mm is the equivalent of 70-200mm.

I'm not a professional photographer, I am an enthusiast only. I've not made any scientific tests, the following are from my real-world experience using this lens for a few years. I hope you find it helpful.  

GX80 with the 35-100 mounted // The 35-100 with the lens hood stowed in hand



Design, Build and Handling
Physically the 35-100mm f4-5.6 is a very small lens. It is smaller than the Lumix 25mm f1.7 prime lens, in diameter and length (when the lens is collapsed) - see the photo on the left below:


The 35-100 has a similar look to the 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 standard zoom (above, right photo). The 35-100 is about the same diameter and just over twice the length. Unlike the 12-32, the 35-100 has a metal lens mount and a manual focus ring. The manual focus ring is close to the front and much narrower than the zoom ring. Both rings are smooth and easy to distinguish between without looking. The lens is made of metal and plastic. The quality is very good, it feels better than the plastic of the Lumix 25mm f1.7 lens. 

The 35-100 is lightweight at 135g. You can hardly feel it when you carry it. There is no weather sealing. A lens hood is included, it is plastic, it can be put on backwards for stowing (it's not easy to use the lens with the hood on backward). The hood can be fiddly to put on. 

The 35-100 mounted on the GX80, lens hood attached, lens collapsed (left) and fully extended (right)

When the lens is collapsed (above left). In this position, if you hold the camera face down, the lens will not slip and extend on its own, it stays in place. To use the camera you must turn the zoom ring. There is some resistance, it's a firm feeling, push past it and you'll be at the 35mm position. There is a smooth, quality feel to this. The lens barrel will extend as soon as you turn it. 

The filter thread is 46mm, I really like that, many other lenses are the same, such as the Lumix 25mm f1.7, the Olympus f1.8 lenses, etc. 

I've owned the 35-100 lens for six years. I've taken it on many trips, it's rolled around inside my bag and it still works perfectly. There's just one thing I noticed recently, when zoomed to 100mm and I use auto-focus, there is an electronic sounding squeaking noise. But it doesn't affect anything and it isn't heard when videoing.  


Zoom Range and Aperture
At 35mm the maximum aperture is f4. Zoom to 100mm and the maximum aperture is f5.6. This means you should take care in low light situations. For example, when photographing at 100mm, at f5.6, if the lighting is not great then you may find it hard to keep the ISO down. The lens does have image stabilisation and is Dual-IS compatible with Lumix cameras like the GX80, GX9, G9, etc. Also, it's easy to hold the camera steady with this lens. The 35-100 is so small and light, it doesn't pull the camera forward, it is balanced well, at least on the GX80 and GX9 cameras I've used it with. 

If you are worried about the f5.6 aperture, check your own photos and see how many are taken below that. In most cases I've found that I often photograph at f4 or f5.6 anyhow. This is especially true when on holiday in good light. 

The reach of this lens is fantastic. The 100mm maximum focal length is the star of the show. I've taken photos of boats on the lake, then later on the computer I have zoomed in and then I've noticed the people on the boat! For a safari maybe a longer lens would be better but for general holiday photos, 100mm is great. The minimum focal length of 35mm is limiting though, I wish it were wider. 


Image Quality
Excellent! I haven't made any scientific tests but I'm very happy with this lens. The images have contrast, good colours, the background blur is pleasant, there is little to complain about here!

Example photos taken with the Lumix 35-100mm f4-5.6

Throughout the zoom range the quality is consistent, although I must admit I have not pixel-peeped nor made any scientific tests. 


Portraits
In addition to giving you a capable general purpose telephoto lens, the 35-100 f4-5.6 can be used as a portrait lens. Don't let the f5.6 put you off, if you put enough space behind your subject, use 100mm, at f5.6 the background blur will be very nice. But of course if you are serious about portrait photography, there are better choices.

Early 2020 I visited Zurich. Mostly I used my 12-32 but upon visiting Zurich Zoo I switched to the 35-100. The photo of a monkey is a good example of what this lens can do, I took this photo indoors, handheld:

GX80 and Lumix 35-100mm f4-5.6 -- taken at 100mm, f5.6, ISO 2000


Close-Focussing 
The minimum focussing distance is 90cm. This is ok for flowers but it's not really my favourite for this kind of photography.   

It is possible to buy some extension tubes and use with the 35-100 to get closer. I tried the Meke mk-paf3a 10mm and 16mm extension tubes:

  • At 35mm, I could get as close as 13cm (distance from the camera body to the subject)
  • At 100mm, I could get as close as 32cm (distance from the camera body to the subject)
For me, I found being at 35mm was best. However, if you are serious about macro, I wouldn't recommend this combination. Make the investment in a dedicated macro lens such as the Olympus 60mm (it's amazing - see my review here). 


Negatives
  • Close focussing is only 90mm, I wish I could get closer.
  • The lens hood is fiddly to fit. Once it is on it is fine though.
  • It starts at 35mm, this means I have to keep swapping lenses when on holiday. I wish it started at 25mm, that would've made it ideal. 35mm is just a little too tight for general photography.
  • I can't think of anything else... It would be nice if it were weather sealed but it is so small it is no trouble to shelter it from a shower.

Price
Shop around, the 35-100 f4-5.6 is often around the USD 350 mark or cheaper. Second hand, probably half that. 


Competition
All other lenses with a similar focal length are bigger, heavier or more expensive. The Panasonic 35-100mm f2.8 is a monster by comparison. Olympus have a 40-150mm f4-5.6 but it is bigger, although you do get some extra reach with it. 

I feel that the biggest competition to this lens actually comes from the 'catch-all' lenses such as the Panasonic Lumix 14-140mm f3.5-5.6. It is a reasonable price (under USD 600) and replaces the 35-100 plus your standard zoom (12-32 for example). The 14-140 is bigger but it is not huge, it could be a good compromise. Olympus/OMDS also have some nice options with the 12-200mm f4-6.3 if you really don't want to compromise on the focal lengths covered.


Conclusion
I believe the 35-100 f4-5.6 is exceptional. It is extremely small, lightweight and affordable. This lens is what Micro Four Thirds is all about! Paired with a GX80 or similar camera, perhaps a 12-32 or prime lens, you have a great travel kit. The compact size of this lens demonstrates the true nature of Micro Four Thirds, especially if you compare to the equivalent Full Frame 70-200mm lens that would be many times bigger, heavier and more expensive.

For anyone who doesn't normally take telephoto pictures, this also maybe a nice lens to have. I say this because being so small and light, you could carry this in your bag for those few times when you need the extra reach. The reasonable price is also a bonus.

Often when reading or watching reviews of lenses I hear lots said about the Pro models. But how much better are they than the consumer lenses such as this 35-100? The question to ask yourself is, do you need a Pro lens or would this smaller, lighter, more reasonably priced lens be enough? Maybe you only photograph at night, then f4-5.6 is no good. But if you take such a lens on holiday the chances are you are photographing in daylight mostly, maybe even sunshine, in which case f4-5.6 is perfect.

As an enthusiast I've had a lot of fun with this 35-100mm f4-5.6 lens. I love the quality of the photos from it. I feel it is a good choice. Perhaps one day I will go for a 14-140, as that might be a simpler option than swapping lenses and I believe it focusses a lot closer. Until that time, the 35-100 f4-5.6 will stay close at hand.


References

Review of the 35-100 by David Thorpe:

Specifications at DPReview:


Disclaimer
I wrote this article to help others and for my own pleasure. I have no affiliation with Panasonic or any other camera company. These are just my own thoughts and opinion. If you disagree, that's fine.




23 Aug 2021

Panasonic Lumix GX80 and GX9 camera comparison

The Panasonic Lumix DC-GX9 is the successor to the DMC-GX80, but how much difference is there? Is it worth upgrading to the GX9? In this article we'll explore the strengths of these two cameras and discover some of the notable differences the later GX9 has to offer.

Panasonic name their cameras depending on where they sell them in the world. The GX80 is also known as the GX85 or GX7 II. The GX9 is also known as the GX7 III. In this article we'll refer to them simply as GX80 and GX9.

  • The GX80 was released back in 2016. It has a 16 megapixel sensor in a compact range-finder style body. It was aimed at the enthusiast level. 
  • The GX9 was released in 2018. It has a 20 megapixel sensor in a very similar body to that of the GX80. 


My Story
I used the GX7 for a number of years. The GX8 was too big, I waited. The GX80 came and for four years I have used and loved it! It is just the right size for me, it has a lot of features in a small package. The GX9 was always tempting, to get the newer 20 megapixel sensor, but the price was too high for such seemingly small differences with the GX80. However, I recently bought the GX9 due to a fantastically low price. Was the upgrade worth it? 


Common features
The two cameras are very similar in looks. On paper the GX9 is slightly bigger and heavier but you can't really tell. In the hand both cameras feel the same. The rear screen flips up and down but not far enough for selfies. Both have an EVF (electronic view finder), 5-axis IBIS (in body image stabilisation) and the same battery. There are three custom positions that are easily accessible from the model dial C position. 

Top: GX9 | Bottom: GX80 - both fitted with the 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 compact zoom lens


Physical differences 
The GX9 has an improved grip due to the large thumb rest. It isn't a massive change but I like it a lot. 

GX9 thumb rest and dials on top

Exposure compensation dial. This is nice but it doesn't make a lot of difference as changing the exposure compensation on the GX80 was so easy. On the GX9 it is possible to disable the physical dial and do it the GX80 way if you prefer. So far I have been using the exposure dial as it is. It doesn't have a lock but I've not had a problem with it moving accidentally yet. 

The main PASM mode dial is smaller on the GX9 because it sits on top of the exposure compensation dial. I would've preferred it to stay the same size as the one on the GX80 but it is ok like this. 

GX9 switch for AFS, AFC or MF


The GX9 has a switch for AFS, AFC and MF (Auto Focus Single point, Auto Focus Continuous and Manual Focus) - just like my old GX7 did! In the same place on the GX80 there is a Fn button that by default is set to 4K Photo. For me having the AF/AFC/MF switch makes a difference. On the GX80 I had a Fn button programmed to it but I prefer this little switch. By the way, it works fine with the MF clutch on my Olympus 17mm F1.8 lens, when you move the clutch, MF is engaged automatically. It overrides the AF/AFC/MF switch position. 

In relation to the GX80, the GX9 power on/off switch has moved just a few millimetres to the left. It's not a problem, just something to get used to. 

On the GX80 the EVF is static. The GX9 EVF swivels up. This can be useful for looking down or if you are at odd angles. However, in practice I don't find this useful, not when I used my old GX7 and not now on the GX9. It's just a nice to have feature. 

According to the specs, the EVF image quality and size are the same on both the GX80 and GX9. However, in my opinion the GX9 view finder image is better. Anyway, that's just my subjective opinion, both EVFs are small in any case. 

Left: GX80 | Right: GX9

The LCD back panels on both GX80 and GX9 are also very similar in specification. Subjectively I do find the GX9 a little more vibrant but that might be more due to the newer menu graphics looking cleaner. 

USB and HDMI ports on both cameras are on the right side. On the GX80 there is a flap covering the ports. The GX9 has a very nice little sliding door. I prefer the GX9 solution, it is more refined.

The lens mount on the GX80 is a sharp edge. On the GX9 it is tapered, it curves slightly. This means if you mount smaller diameter lenses there are no sharp edges for your fingers to touch. This is a subtle difference but I like it, again a design refinement. 


Internal improvements
The GX9 has a 20 megapixel sensor. It's better than the GX80's 16 megapixel on paper. Practically do not expect any massive difference in image quality. 

Both the GX80 and GX9 have WiFi. The GX9 has Bluetooth. The Bluetooth can be used to log GPS coordinates in photos as you go. It's also possible to use the app as a remote trigger using the Bluetooth alone. There maybe other advantages but I have not fully explored this yet. Whether this is important or not is debatable. If you use a tripod a lot then perhaps the remote trigger would be nice because it doesn't use so much power as the WiFi. On both cameras the WiFi drains the battery fast!


Software improvements
The menus in the GX9 have been updated. The graphics have a cleaner look, they look higher resolution, the black is a deeper black. More menu options can be seen at once, for example, on the GX80 the first photo menu has eight pages whereas the GX9 has four. There has been some rearrangement too, now the third menu (C and spanner icon) is very short, just five options. But select any of those menu items and there is a sub-menu below. This might seem cheating but I don't mind this, I think it is better. Having a very long list makes it difficult to find what you are looking for, this is an improvement over the GX80. 

Left: GX80 | Right: GX9

In the menus on the GX80 of you wanted help there was a line of text scrolling by at the top. I didn't find that helpful. With the GX9 press Disp and it shows a little window with an explanation. 

The biggest practical update to the menu is having My Menu. It's a customisable menu for you. Add any menu items that you like. I've added things like Time Lapse and WiFi - always the sort of options I usually cannot find but don't want to assign to a button. I am impressed with Panasonic for including this My Menu option to the GX9, they could've decided it was a consumer level camera and left it out. Adding it really means they understand some of us appreciate this extra customisability (Olympus, I hope you are listening - add such features to your lower end models, why not?). 

On my GX80 the battery level indicator had three bars. It wasn't a very precise way of telling how much juice you had left. The GX9 has improved this, now there are four bars. Yes it's not a big improvement, but it's better than nothing. Dear Panasonic, if you are reading this, please give us a percentage number instead. 

A minimum shutter speed can be set on the GX9. This could be useful if you wanted to photograph in Aperture priority but you still wanted to keep your shutter speed within a certain range. 

The GX9 has a completely new feature called Sequence Composition. This is in the Playback menu. First take a 4K Photo clip, have something move through the frame. Use Sequence Composition to select some frames from the 4K Photo clip and merge them. The resulting image will have whatever was moving through the frame, appearing multiple times at multiple points. I haven't tried it yet but I'm looking forward to some fun with it. 

4K Photo Bulk Saving is a new feature that will save lots of frames from a 4K Photo clip. 

Sometimes on my GX80 I would want to use a filter but I assign the Filter option to a menu button. This is because when using the mode dial, it's in Auto. Using a button means I can control my exposure and then apply the Filter. But on the GX80 the assigned Filter button would switch the current Filter on/off. With the GX9 the button will give you the choice of filter to select.

The Post Focus feature is available from the Drive button. This is a good idea because on the GX80 it was only in the menus and a pain to find. The Post Focus option can be useful for focus stacking. I hope the GX9 focus stacking has improved, it wasn't the best on the GX80. Something else to try! 

If you have a lens with a button on it, there is an option in the GX9 menu to configure it. 

The GX9 has an option to configure the folder structure and filenames. 

The GX9 has a new Photo Style called L Monochrome D. Set it up how you like, it is even possible to add simulated grain to the image. There's also Cinelike D and V Photo Styles.


Video
When filming 4K video, both the GX80 and GX9 have a crop. The crop is greater on the GX9. For me it isn't an disadvantage because I don't use video much and usually I stick with Full HD. Having a crop does mean you can get slightly closer to the subject too. But I know this is also a disadvantage because it means the view you have for photography is not the same as the view you have when you switch to video. 

GX9 video modes including PAL and NTSC

The GX9 does have a better selection of video modes. The GX80 was set to 25 and 50fps for Europe. However, the GX9 allows for 30 and 60fps too. 


Conclusion
The GX80 is a wonderful camera, they already got so much right with it. The GX9 is an enhancement over the original. It is like two Bakewell tarts and one has a cherry - that is the one you want but the other will be just as delicious. 

If you already have a GX80, my recommendation is to stick with it unless you see the GX9 at a fantastic price (that's what happened to me!). Or perhaps if your GX80 dies, get a GX9 next time. 

I do applaud Panasonic for these two models. The GX9 is a refresh of the GX80 where they kept the spirit of a small but powerful enthusiast level camera. For a travel and street camera, the GX series works so well. I do hope Panasonic will not forget to give us a GX10 in the near future.


References and links

A written comparison between the GX80 and GX9: 
https://mirrorlesscomparison.com/panasonic-vs-panasonic/gx9-vs-gx85-gx80/

Specifications: 
https://www.dpreview.com/products/compare/side-by-side?products=panasonic_dmcgx85&products=panasonic_dcgx9

A video review of the GX9 but with reference to the GX80 and other GX models: 
https://youtu.be/3UleohHc8CA


Disclaimer
I wrote this article to help others and for my own pleasure. I have no affiliation with Panasonic or any other camera company. These are just my own thoughts and opinion. If you disagree, that's fine.


4 Apr 2021

Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens (for Micro Four Thirds cameras)

I've been using the Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens for a few months and wanted to share my impressions. I'm not a professional photographer and there are many technical reviews available. This article is from my subjective point of view, my thoughts and experience of the lens. The Olympus 17mm f1.8 is a Micro Four Thirds (M43) lens as used primarily by Olympus and Panasonic Lumix G cameras.




Design and Build
As soon as you pick up the Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens you smile because you are holding a quality product. You have that feeling because of the metal build. There is some plastic trim, the focus ring and cap are also made from plastic but overall, the Olympus 17mm f1.7 feels like it is built to last. Although a thoroughly modern lens in many respects, I also get a bit of a retro vibe from it. Perhaps due to the build but also the numbers and distance scale on the barrel add to the feeling. The front lens element is small which is nice because there's less to be damaged in a glancing blow. The filter thread is 46mm which is the same as some other popular M43 lenses, handy if you already have 46mm filters.
 
Panasonic Lumix GX80 and Olympus 17mm f1.8

When mounted on my Panasonic Lumix GX80, the Olympus 17mm f1.8 looks right at home. I think this lens is perfect for any small or medium sized M43 cameras. The weight is just about right, it's slightly heavier than the Lumix 25mm f1.7 for example.

Size-wise the 17mm f1.8 is also just about right. It's not as small as a pancake lens but it's smaller than comparable many lenses. Below you can see both the 17mm and the Panasonic Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 zoom next to each other. The 17mm is not a lot bigger than the tiny 12-32.

Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 and Olympus 17mm f1.8

The 12-32, when set to 17mm, has a maximum aperture of f4. If you are considering the Olympus 17mm as a compliment to the 12-32, I think it's a good choice. 


Focal Length
M43 17mm is equivalent to 34mm in Full Frame (FF) terms. That's close to the classic 35mm angle of view. Therefore the 17mm is a moderate wide angle lens suitable for all kinds of photography. I would characterise the angle of view as 'comfortable'. What I mean is, for the majority of day-to-day photography this is probably all you need. It's not very wide so there's no distortion when you get close to the lens.

It is not suited to portrait shots, although it can be good for what's called environmental portraits. That's when you include some other elements with your subject. The best example is when you are on holiday, you want to take photos with someone in it but also some background. It is a personal choice though, I must admit that I also like the 25mm (50mm equiv.) focal length too. If you are considering a 25mm lens instead, click here for an article I wrote on the Lumix 25mm f1.7. 


Close-Focussing
It says 25cm is the closest you can focus but it seems to be more like 20cm to me. This is pretty good for most situations. As the field of view is wide, it isn't easy to get close-up (macro style) photos. However, you can still get some nice flower photos as long as the flowers are big enough. In the following photo the flowers are small, because of the 17mm angle of view you can get more in the frame.

Olympus 17mm f1.8, taken at f4, ISO 200

To get those close up shots of smaller flowers you could consider buying the Olympus MCON-P02 macro adapter, it screws onto the front of the lens. I have one for use with my Olympus 45mm f1.8 lens. The MCON-P02 also works well with the 17mm:


I took the three pictures (left to right) of daisies (small flowers) above in Aperture Priority at F4, ISO 200:
  1. Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens only, as close as I could get
  2. Olympus 17mm f1.8 lens + MCON-P02 macro adapter, as close as I could get
  3. Olympus 45mm f1.8 lens + MCON-P02 macro adapter, as close as I could get
The 17mm and MCON-P02 definitely gets you closer (photo 2 is closer than 1) but is it worth the extra USD 90 (approx.) and hassle (screwing it on/off)? In my opinion, no. I think you'd be better off getting a dedicated macro lens. Where the MCON-P02 makes a big difference is when used with the Olympus 45mm f1.8 (photo 3). If you also have that lens then it might be worth getting the MCON-P02. A more detailed article on the MCON-P02 is here


Auto-Focussing
Fast and silent. I have no complaints using it with my Lumix GX80 camera. Way better than the Lumix 20mm f1.7, if you are comparing those two lenses, I would recommend the Olympus 17mm f1.8.


Manual Focussing
The Olympus 17mm f1.8 has a Manual Focus Clutch. The focus ring can be pulled back, this reveals a focussing distance scale and activates manual focus in the camera. On my Panasonic Lumix GX80 camera this works perfectly. Pull the focus ring back, the camera goes into MF. Push the ring forward and I'm back in AF mode.



Once the focusing ring is pulled back the distance scale is visible below an aperture scale. The idea is that in the camera you set your aperture. You match the focus ring distance scale to that aperture. For example, set your aperture to f5.6, use the focus ring to line up 1m with 5.6. That means that one metre from your camera most objects will be in focus. This is useful because you could leave your camera like this and just snap photos. You just have to remember to move within 1m. It can be good for street photography where you don't want to spend time focussing, just point and shoot.

Practically is the MF clutch useful? I haven't used it much so far, the auto-focus is so fast on my GX80. But it is a nice feature to have, something to explore.


Image Quality
Superb! I am not a pixel peeper and I don't do scientific tests. I can only say that I'm very happy with the photos when I use this lens. I wouldn't say the 17mm is a huge improvement over other lenses, such as the Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6 for example, because that's an already sharp lens. However, the low-light capability of the Olympus 17mm f1.8 puts it head and shoulders above such a lens. For example, if you are outside photographing flowers and then go inside to photograph, fine, the lens does a fantastic job in both situations. If you can use a low f number, your ISO can stay lower, giving you more detailed photographs in low light. 


Background Blur / Bokeh
Yes, it's possible with this 17mm lens with f1.8, you can get some nice out-of-focus effects. But don't expect too much because 17mm is wide and to get the best bokeh effect you really need a longer focal length. If you are deciding upon your first prime and bokeh is important to you, go for a 25mm (50mm equiv.) or better still, a 45mm (90mm equiv.) lens.

Olympus 17mm f1.8, photo taken at f1.8, ISO 200

It's also worth mentioning that traditionally this 17mm (35mm equiv.) focal length is preferred by those who want depth of field, they don't want so much bokeh. Often a photograph can be best with more in focus, always keep this in mind, don't get too swept up in the notion that bokeh is always needed in your photos.


Negatives
The Olympus 17mm f1.8 is excellent, these are the only downsides I can think of:
  1. A lens hood is not included in the box. It's a shame as sometimes with direct sunlight there are some blue flares that appear. The official Olympus lens hood costs an arm and a leg! There are third-party ones, that's probably the best choice, maybe later I'll get one.

  2. There's no weather sealing but no other lenses in this price range/style, have weather sealing. Also, weather sealing is not important unless your camera body is also weather sealed. It's also a small lens so easy to shelter under your jacket if you get caught in a surprise shower.

Price
When originally released it was pricey. In recent times the 17mm has often dropped to around USD 350. I was lucky to get mine on sale, brand new, for about USD 230! Keep your eye out, you might get such a bargain. If you compare to a lens such as the Lumix 25mm f1.7 or Olympus 45mm f1.8, then yes the 17mm is expensive. However, remember that the 17mm is a lens with a much higher build quality and the manual focus clutch too. The 17mm is a premium lens for the discerning photographer! 


Competition
You could stick with a zoom lens such as the Lumix 12-32mm f3.5-5.6. It covers all the most popular focal lengths and it's small and light. However, it's not the best in low light, at 17mm the 12-32 will give you a maximum aperture of just f4. The Olympus 17mm f1.8 can open up a lot of new photography opportunities. 

For other primes I'd say the Panasonic Lumix 20mm f1.7 and Leica 15mm f1.7 are the closest competition. They are similar focal lengths to the Olympus 17mm f1.8 and are also small, compact lenses. I used to have the 20mm, it was great but the auto-focus was slow and the 20mm focal length didn't suit me. I haven't used the Leica 15mm f1.7 yet but all the reviews I've seen rave about it. I wanted this lens but I ended up with the Olympus 17mm f1.8 instead, the reason was price. The 15mm is often much more expensive.

Olympus have another 17mm, their Pro level lens, it has a maximum aperture of f1.2 and it is weather sealed. However, it's huge and heavy compared with the 17mm f1.8. Also, the Pro lens is super expensive. If you are looking for the best, of course the Pro lens is it. If you are looking for the best value, the 17mm f1.8 is the lens you are looking for.


Conclusion
The Olympus 17mm f1.8 is a fine lens that is a joy to use! The focal length is general purpose, the lens is light, compact, it has great build quality, it looks the part... it's a great little lens. 


References
Here are a few reviews and other links:

Micro Four Thirds: 

Specifications:

Review by David Thorpe: 

A comparison between the 17mm and the Olympus 14-42mm kit lens by Rob Trek: 
A comparison between the Olympus 17mm f1.8 and the Pro lens, here's a video by Peter Foresgard: 


Disclaimer
I wrote this article to help others and for my own pleasure. I have no affiliation with Olympus or any other camera company. These are just my own thoughts and opinion. If you disagree, that's fine.